Our New Office

Thursday, November 20th, 2008. After a fairly uneventful day and a half of work, Sara and I attended a Thai cooking class. Our instructor, a noteworthy local Thai chef, had a dry sense of humor and a very matter of fact manner. For example, when it was time to visit the local food market in Chiang Mai, our chef (who also doubled as our driver) was a little consternated by the lack of a convenient parking space. Rather than park further away, he simply left his truck in the street, got out, and physically pushed a scooter and another vehicle out of the way! Evidently, no one uses a parking brake or has an automatic transmission, so pushing a vehicle out of the way is no big deal.

Our visit to the Chiang Mai food market reminded us quite a bit of the market we stumbled upon in Bangkok. Very cramped, and smelling of rotten fish. Still, so long as you didn’t let the smell get to you, it was quite interesting. A very large selection of foods – from noodles to fruits and vegetables to every kind of meat – all for surprisingly low prices. If I could somehow learn to set aside my Western belief that all foods must be packaged for sanitary reasons, I would likely enjoy shopping here.

After our tour of the local food market, it was off to the cooking school. We learned to prepare a variety of traditional Thai foods. It was easy – all the ingredients were prepared for us and all we had to do was “cook” – but it was still fun. I feel a little more confident making some classic Asian foods now. When I have a kitchen again (homeless since August 1st, 2008), I’ll be sure to put these new skills to good use.

Sara didn’t manage to spill anything…very impressive. Why couldn’t she do this at home?

One of the better aspects of our evening cooking class was the fact that we were joined by a couple of young Australians fresh out of college. It was nice to speak with some Westerners, and we felt like we learned a tiny bit about Australian culture in the process. We had an especially enlightening conversation about Australia’s Aboriginal population and the challenges they faced – as well as the incredible similarities to the issues facing Native Americans.

One of the most interesting aspects of our travels has been the number of times we’ve realized that many of the political and social problems facing the U.S.A. are hardly unique. I’ve often assumed (for a lack of awareness more than anything else) that America’s problems were somehow “special.” They are not. Everywhere we’ve been, we’ve seen proof that many of the issues fresh on the minds of Americans are shared by people living half-way around the world.

This leads me to a bigger point – I’ve often drawn a distinction between “foreign” and “domestic” issues. While there are certainly some issues that fall into these categories, many do not. Being that so many of “our” issues are shared by the rest of the world, I’m beginning to wonder why these problems aren’t being worked out on an international level. Obviously, no one solution will work everywhere for everyone, but it’s arrogant to believe that only American politicians and policy makers can solve “American” problems. Can I get an amen?

Wednesday, November 19th, 2008. Today we decided to purchase a group tour that included an elephant ride, an ox-cart ride, a visit to a “real” local village, a river raft ride, and a buffet lunch. We learned about this tour from some people we met in Phuket, and we were not disappointed.

First, we witnessed an elephant show. Specially trained elephants performed various tricks, ranging from painting to playing soccer to dancing. We took lots of video and pictures – make sure to check them out. Here’s the most popular one so far:

After the elephant show, it was time for an ox-cart ride up the hill. Let me state for the record that ox-carts have fallen out of popularity for a good reason – they’re very uncomfortable. Still, it was a memorable experience.

We rode an elephant back down the hill after our ox-cart ride, crossing through the river a few times. Our mighty elephant was amazing, but as Sara said it was a bumpy ride. Still, another great experience.

The high point of the day might have been lunch, but not because of the food. During the elephant show, Sara and I befriended some people from Colorado (shoutout to Jon and Michelle). We ate lunch together in an open-air pavilion, and our tour guide acted sort of weird when he noticed where we were sitting. At the time, I didn’t pay any attention to it.

This little guy was about 8 inches across…no joke. He was “hanging out” right above our heads.

However, after the meal was over and we were getting ready to leave, I looked up on the ceiling and said “OH. MY. GOD.”

A spider about 8″ across was resting in a web on the ceiling almost directly above our table. It had been there the whole time. According to our guide, this spider was quite poisonous (which seems obvious considering the skull and cross-bones like pattern on it’s back). As we looked around the pavilion some more, Sara and I noticed at least two more of these gargantuan s hanging above. We were creeped out, to say the least.

Another couple found a spider over their heads shortly after we found ours (we caused a little bit of a stir when we pointed it out to people). This one had just “shed” it’s old body…more creepiness.

Following our excitement, it was time to ride down the river. This was a pleasant experience for sure – very picturesque.

As Sara and I were riding back into Chiang Mai, we had a nice talk with Jon and Michelle (from Ft. Collins) about Thailand, travel, and the morality of using elephants for our own amusement. It was great to talk to someone new (Sara and I were getting tired of talking to each other), but it was also nice to meet some people we genuinely had a lot in common with.

Chiang Mai is quickly becoming our favorite destination in Thailand.

Tuesday, November 18th, 2008. After visiting Doi Suthep and the Night Market, it was time to visit the sites inside the old Chiang Mai city walls. We started our tour at the Tha Phae gate, which traces it’s history back to about 700 years ago when Chiang Mai was founded. The name “tha phae” roughly translates to “raft landing,” which means this was likely an important city gate for trade. Unlike the city walls we visited in Xi’An, China, all that remains of Chiang Mai’s city walls are a few collapsed sections at each corner and a couple of gates. Still, collapsed or not, the city wall was quite large – 3 or 4km on a side, I would guess. It was (and still is) surrounded by a moat fed by the river. It’s a nice layout for the old part of the city.

Sara and Jason smiling at Tha Phae gate in Chiang Mai.

We walked from Tha Phae Gate to the center of the old city and saw, arguably, the most impressive temple in all of Chiang Mai. Known as Wat Chedi Luang, it contains the remnants of a huge chedi (chedi – a large structure containing a relic of Buddha) that partially collapsed during an earthquake in the sixteenth century (I think – going from memory). Even though the chedi is half as large as it once was, it is still quite impressive.

Wat Chedi Luang, in Chiang Mai, Thailand. The chedi partially collapsed during an earthquake, but it’s still a very large and impressive structure.

We enjoyed a “monk chat” while visiting Wat Chedi Luang. We spoke with a young monk – late teens or early 20’s – who answered our questions about monks and Buddhism. The most fascinating part of our talk was that our monk didn’t seem like he was going to be a monk much longer. He seemed ready to leave the temple and join the Thai Army and fulfill his compulsory service requirement. He even voiced some interest in a military career.

It’s hard to contemplate, but this young man has been a monk for years. His parents weren’t able to support him, so they dropped him off at the temple in Chiang Rai to become a “novice,” or young monk. He was given a free education by the older monks in the temple, and his food and other essentials were donated by the local community. He owed his life to his religion, but he seemed perfectly willing to leave the monastery behind. What’s more, he made a point to emphasize the fact that Buddhist monks are free to come and go as they wish – there is nothing compulsory (or expected) about their service to the temple.

Whatever your faith, you have to admire a religion that offers education and shelter to a young man with no strings attached.

There was a frightfully disturbing experience that I had shortly after our monk chat. While speaking with the monk, Sara and I learned that one of the most esteemed and enlightened monks in all of Thailand died about 4 months ago, and that people were still coming to visit him each and every day. I took that to mean people were visiting a memorial. Not exactly. Imagine a partially embalmed body made to sit upright by some unseen supports so that it appears to be in a state of deep meditation. Imagine that this body is also slowly rotting in a tropical climate. It was such a vile smell coming from the temple that contained this body that I had a hard time setting foot inside. Not to mention the creep factor.

I think this speaks more to my squeamishness than anything else, but I was disturbed. Still, it is their custom and it must be respected. I would just rather respect it from a distance. Sara was feeling a little stuffed up that day, so she couldn’t smell what I smelled and therefore believes I over-reacted.

I don’t think so.

Monday, November 17th, 2008. Today, Sara and I met a stranger on the street who claimed he was a cab driver (although he had no car nearby and no uniform). We negotiated a rate for a ride up to Doi Suthep, followed him to his car, and jumped in without a second thought. Reckless? Perhaps – but that’s how it’s done here. Our driver was a supremely nice guy and very affordable. If he ever sends me an email with his contact info, I’ll plug his service here on the site.

Doi Suthep mountain offers a great view of Chiang Mai and the surrounding countryside, and it’s also home to Wat Phra Tat, one of Chiang Mai’s many Buddhist temples.

The stairs leading to Wat Phra Tat on Doi Suthep just outside of Chiang Mai.

Buddhism, as I understand it, is the pursuit of enlightenment. Enlightenment is achieved (again, based on my rudimentary understanding) through meditation and selflessness. The path to enlightenment isn’t set in stone, but it’s strongly suggested that you refrain from eating meat. It’s also essential that you abstain from violence and harming others. Finally, you must give to charity. Evidently, if you follow these rules (and likely others I’m not aware of), you have a chance to achieve enlightenment and complete an endless cycle of death and rebirth (reincarnation is a Buddhist tenet).

What most impresses me about Buddhism is it’s passive nature. While I’m certain there’s a powerful organizing force behind Buddhism, I have yet to see any signs of this organization dominating everyday life. Aside from a few customs (more quirky than anything else), Buddhism doesn’t seem to dictate political and legal policies, nor does it seem to “partition” Thai society. Perhaps I’m oblivious to what’s really happening, but Buddhism doesn’t seem to have the same force of rule that’s commonplace with many other religions.

Jason flirting with Buddhism at the Wat Phra Tat Chedi.

While visiting Wat Phra That near Chiang Mai, I decided I would pretend to be Buddhist to see what it was all about. I lit some incense and a candle, kneeled on the ground, and thought about enlightenment. I thought about being more giving, more selfless, and striving not to harm others. I’m not going to say it was a “religious experience” – it was more cultural than religious – but I will say that I have great respect for Buddhism as I understand it. Don’t get me wrong – I’m not converting or anything – but I learned something today.

Sunday, November 16th, 2008. After arriving in Chiang Mai, Sara and I headed out to find dinner. We walked through the night market, found some cool shops, and eventually ended up at “The Good View” restaurant right along the river.

During our walk, Sara and I noticed a particularly bright orange “star” in the sky. Sara asked me if I thought it was a planet, and I said that while I wasn’t sure, that seemed like the right answer. It was plainly visible on a lit street just after sunset. We thought nothing of it and went about our evening.

About an hour later, we found ourselves noticing another orange spot in the sky. However, this was MUCH larger and moving fairly slowly, but still quick enough to be missed after a couple of minutes. Intrigued, Sara and I watched it go for a while, and when it kept getting brighter (seemingly closer) Sara ran outside the restaurant, camera in hand, to take a photo.

I talked about what it could be – I reasoned that is must be something burning up in the atmosphere. Whatever it was, I thought, it must have been pretty big to be so visible and to burn so slowly. We talked about “near misses” and calamities caused by asteroid strikes (I even mentioned the Van Allen belt – dork alert). A couple of minutes later, we noticed two more. Then another. My concern was palpable to Sara – either the Earth is moving through an asteroid field (bad) or those aren’t asteroids burning up…those are rocket motors!

Rockets? Missiles? Not possible. I was confident of that…or was I? While I hadn’t shared my missile worries with Sara, she seemed just as concerned as I was. Whatever it was we were seeing, it wasn’t natural.

It was at this point that a tall German man (German accent anyways) stepped in front of my line of sight. As I was creening around him to try and get a look, he seemed a little irritated. “What is this guy’s problem, staring at me?” When he looked at me like “What the hell” I pointed in the sky and showed him what I was staring at. For a moment, he seemed a little lost, then he told me he saw thousands of them a couple of days ago. “Meteors?” I asked, thinking that was the only other possibility, and he said in a German accent “Vhat? No. Not meat-e-ors – ba-loons. Zey have a festival here…”

I was relieved – it was just a balloon. The German man explained a little more about Loi Krathong – the Thai’s traditional November festival – and the fact that a few days ago balloons like this filled the sky.

The man noticed my relief and he laughed when he realized I had thought the worst. While I didn’t tell him about my missile theory, he said “Don’t worry friend, it’s not the Russians!” Then he and his friend laughed, as did Sara and I. The powers of the human imagination know no limit. Hoepfully I won’t get so carried away next time.

A long time ago–long before we came to Asia–I came across this video of painting elephants.

Amazing, isn’t it?

Well, imagine my excitement when I got to see it for myself.

We saw this while on our jungle trek. I can’t believe what great artists these elephants make.

So many great moments it’s hard to pick…

1. Being approached by a taxi driver who agreed to drive us up the mountain to see the Buddhist Temple–Doi Suthep Naga. Later that day he drove us to the village shops a/k/a tourist trap shopping center where we actually had a pretty good time. Later our driver told Jason he wanted to see us again and even be friends for life.

That was a first.

2. While walking through Chiang Mai we came to the Tha Phrae Gate (old city wall) and ended up speaking with two different groups of Americans. One of whom took our picture and the other we took pictures of…it’s good to be tourists.

3. After the gate we walked a ways more. We were so hot that day. When we found a smoothie shop we sat there for a really long time just basking in the coolness. Seems like such a small thing, but it was the best part of our day.

4. Visiting the Wat Chedi Luang and being able to speak with a monk about Buddhist life and being a monk.

5. Stumbling on Tha Phrae Gate a second time, but this time after a pseudo-Mexican dinner. Once again we were impressed by the pretty sight.

6. Bamboo raft trip and seeing the elephants paint.

7. Our Thai cooking class.

8. Catching up on work at the nearby coffee shops. Chiang Mai is a backpacker’s paradise with all kinds of bars, coffee shops, and cheap restaurants.

9. Shopping at the night markets.

Crap?
Yes.

Cheap?
Yes.

Worth buying?
Yes.

10. Watching Jason’s reaction when he stepped into the world’s coldest hotel pool.

While in Chiang Mai we went to the circus on a jungle safari. I was so excited to ride the elephants and really experience the jungle, but once we got to our destination I was disappointed to realize that it was all a bit too touristy/contrived for my taste.

The first part of our “jungle trek” was an elephant show. I love the elephants. They are amazing. While watching them paint, dance, and do crazy things was entertaining, I couldn’t help but wonder if maybe it wasn’t ethical to force these beautiful animals to act like idiots all just to make us laugh.

But we were there so we played along and enjoyed it anyway.

Next on the agenda was an oxcart ride to a “real” mountain village.

Apparently this is how many villagers got around back in the day. It was a bumpy ride, but not as bumpy as what would come later.

When we got to the village I was not surprised to see 12 or 15 little stands selling the same touristy items we’d seen all over Thailand so far–even though the village was touted as being an authentic village where Tibetan families lived and sold their handcrafted wares.  I was tempted to buy a hat but then I noticed the label said “Route 66″ and I decided if I was going to buy an authentic Route 66 hat I might as well do it at K-Mart back home. Instead, we bought some water and waited for our ride back.

The ride on the elephant was much bumpier than I expected. We really had to hang on  tight. As much as I had looked forward to the elephant ride, I was glad to get off. My tush hurt a little.

The last part of the “trek” was a ride on a bamboo raft. This was my favorite part of the day. It was very peaceful. The scenery was beautiful. And we had good company. Ironically enough there was a couple on our tour from Ft. Collins, Colorado. What are the chances?

Here we all are. Say hi to John and Michelle. (John’s hiding behind my lovely hat).

Of all the exotic and wonderful things we saw that day, only one was not orchestrated…

This giant spider (the size of my hand, at least) hung out over our heads during our lunch. He went completely unnoticed until we were finished and ready to leave. He put the fright in us.

Now, that’s what hanging out in a Thai jungle is all about.

After Phuket we traveled to Chiang Mai, which is in northern Thailand and surrounded by mountains. Chiang Mai was an excellent stop and a place we wish we could’ve stayed longer.

Our first night there we walked from our hotel through the night markets, across the river, and to a restaurant called The Good View.

Beers are only $1 in Thailand and chicken curry is only a few more. Needless to say, it was a nice, inexpensive dinner overlooking the river.

About half way through our meal I looked up to the sky to see this huge orange light moving pretty fast. We started taking all these pictures because we thought it was a meteor or something. Then a few minutes went by and we saw six more and they were right on top of each other. We were freaking out a little not knowing what it was.

Jason finally turned around and asked a guy (who happened to be from Germany) what they were and he laughed at us, I mean really laughed at us. Apparently these were balloons of some sort that are lit on fire in order to make them float. Every year in November the Thai people celebrate the full moon and the coming dry season. This is part of that celebration.

Anyway in between bouts of laughter this guy said something like, “So did you think the Russians were coming?”

Well, yeah, something like that. Either that or the world was about to implode into a fiery mess.

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