Our New Office

Thursday, November 20th, 2008. After a fairly uneventful day and a half of work, Sara and I attended a Thai cooking class. Our instructor, a noteworthy local Thai chef, had a dry sense of humor and a very matter of fact manner. For example, when it was time to visit the local food market in Chiang Mai, our chef (who also doubled as our driver) was a little consternated by the lack of a convenient parking space. Rather than park further away, he simply left his truck in the street, got out, and physically pushed a scooter and another vehicle out of the way! Evidently, no one uses a parking brake or has an automatic transmission, so pushing a vehicle out of the way is no big deal.

Our visit to the Chiang Mai food market reminded us quite a bit of the market we stumbled upon in Bangkok. Very cramped, and smelling of rotten fish. Still, so long as you didn’t let the smell get to you, it was quite interesting. A very large selection of foods – from noodles to fruits and vegetables to every kind of meat – all for surprisingly low prices. If I could somehow learn to set aside my Western belief that all foods must be packaged for sanitary reasons, I would likely enjoy shopping here.

After our tour of the local food market, it was off to the cooking school. We learned to prepare a variety of traditional Thai foods. It was easy – all the ingredients were prepared for us and all we had to do was “cook” – but it was still fun. I feel a little more confident making some classic Asian foods now. When I have a kitchen again (homeless since August 1st, 2008), I’ll be sure to put these new skills to good use.

Sara didn’t manage to spill anything…very impressive. Why couldn’t she do this at home?

One of the better aspects of our evening cooking class was the fact that we were joined by a couple of young Australians fresh out of college. It was nice to speak with some Westerners, and we felt like we learned a tiny bit about Australian culture in the process. We had an especially enlightening conversation about Australia’s Aboriginal population and the challenges they faced – as well as the incredible similarities to the issues facing Native Americans.

One of the most interesting aspects of our travels has been the number of times we’ve realized that many of the political and social problems facing the U.S.A. are hardly unique. I’ve often assumed (for a lack of awareness more than anything else) that America’s problems were somehow “special.” They are not. Everywhere we’ve been, we’ve seen proof that many of the issues fresh on the minds of Americans are shared by people living half-way around the world.

This leads me to a bigger point – I’ve often drawn a distinction between “foreign” and “domestic” issues. While there are certainly some issues that fall into these categories, many do not. Being that so many of “our” issues are shared by the rest of the world, I’m beginning to wonder why these problems aren’t being worked out on an international level. Obviously, no one solution will work everywhere for everyone, but it’s arrogant to believe that only American politicians and policy makers can solve “American” problems. Can I get an amen?

Wednesday, November 19th, 2008. Today we decided to purchase a group tour that included an elephant ride, an ox-cart ride, a visit to a “real” local village, a river raft ride, and a buffet lunch. We learned about this tour from some people we met in Phuket, and we were not disappointed.

First, we witnessed an elephant show. Specially trained elephants performed various tricks, ranging from painting to playing soccer to dancing. We took lots of video and pictures – make sure to check them out. Here’s the most popular one so far:

After the elephant show, it was time for an ox-cart ride up the hill. Let me state for the record that ox-carts have fallen out of popularity for a good reason – they’re very uncomfortable. Still, it was a memorable experience.

We rode an elephant back down the hill after our ox-cart ride, crossing through the river a few times. Our mighty elephant was amazing, but as Sara said it was a bumpy ride. Still, another great experience.

The high point of the day might have been lunch, but not because of the food. During the elephant show, Sara and I befriended some people from Colorado (shoutout to Jon and Michelle). We ate lunch together in an open-air pavilion, and our tour guide acted sort of weird when he noticed where we were sitting. At the time, I didn’t pay any attention to it.

This little guy was about 8 inches across…no joke. He was “hanging out” right above our heads.

However, after the meal was over and we were getting ready to leave, I looked up on the ceiling and said “OH. MY. GOD.”

A spider about 8″ across was resting in a web on the ceiling almost directly above our table. It had been there the whole time. According to our guide, this spider was quite poisonous (which seems obvious considering the skull and cross-bones like pattern on it’s back). As we looked around the pavilion some more, Sara and I noticed at least two more of these gargantuan s hanging above. We were creeped out, to say the least.

Another couple found a spider over their heads shortly after we found ours (we caused a little bit of a stir when we pointed it out to people). This one had just “shed” it’s old body…more creepiness.

Following our excitement, it was time to ride down the river. This was a pleasant experience for sure – very picturesque.

As Sara and I were riding back into Chiang Mai, we had a nice talk with Jon and Michelle (from Ft. Collins) about Thailand, travel, and the morality of using elephants for our own amusement. It was great to talk to someone new (Sara and I were getting tired of talking to each other), but it was also nice to meet some people we genuinely had a lot in common with.

Chiang Mai is quickly becoming our favorite destination in Thailand.

Here are some more events that took place during the 2 weeks Sara and I stayed in Phuket. Most of the time was spent working, but there were quite a few cool experiences.

- We saw an elephant play in the ocean. We saw a 40ish woman (who was staying at the resort) feed this elephant watermelon she bought and cut for it. She played with the elephant. She swam with the elephant. Essentially, she acted exactly like a small child would. I admire her for it – most people (myself included) can’t revel in the simple joy that life can offer for fear of looking foolish. Not this woman.

- I turned 30 in Phuket. Leading up to the big day, Sara often asked me “What do you want for your birthday?” I usually responded with “I don’t need anything,” but after being asked enough times (I guess my wife didn’t like that answer), I got a little fed-up and said “I’m in Phuket, Thailand, at the Marriot. What the hell else do I need?” That put an end to the questions (and got me a dirty look too).

- We rented a car in Phuket and I drove on the “wrong” side of the car (right side) on the “wrong” side of the road (left side). I can mark that off my “list of things to do before I die.”

- We went on a bike tour of Phuket, and we saw photos of the 2004 Tsunami. Our bike tour guides each lost friends and family in the tsunami, helping me to realize the tremendous impact of this disaster (40,000 Thais died, plus many more in Indonesia). Seeing a wall of graphic photos of bodies and destruction strewn across beaches is something I will likely never forget.

- We also went on a limestone sea cave tour – very exciting. Sara wrote about it a little bit – we saw bats! If only it hadn’t rained the whole time.

Wreckage left-over from the 2004 tsunami at Koh Phi Phi.

- We visited Koh Phi Phi, a small island near Phuket that was almost completely destroyed by the 2004 tsunami. It’s difficult to comprehend, but nearly every building on the island was washed away. Four years later, it was difficult to tell that anything had happened here. It was a beautiful, nice place, and we wished we had spent more time their. It was also quite popular with young western tourists (mostly backpackers).

November 2nd -16th, 2008. After leaving Cambodia, Sara and I traveled to Phuket. We stayed at the Marriot Resort (HUGE shoutout to Kim and Ian for such a great wedding present!) for two weeks, and I finally had a chance to relax. I was able to buckle down and catch up on some work, as well as get rid of a persistent cough that was becoming a nuisance.

Rather than keeping a daily (or almost daily) log for our two weeks in Phuket (which were mostly filled with work), I’m just going to give you the highlights.

When we first arrived in Phuket, weary from a full day of travel (we flew from Cambodia to Bangkok, then Bangkok to Phuket, with a healthy layover in between), we had an odd experience. When our taxi pulled up to the Marriot resort, a security guard checked the trunk before letting us thru the gate. At the time, I wondered if they were checking for someone in the trunk. It wasn’t until another taxi driver made a joke – he said “BOOM!” when the security guard checked his car – that I realized what was happening. They were checking for bombs – yikes. I started a lot of checkpoints for bombs in the area, and I even found a news story about a bombing in the very south of Thailand while we were visiting. Not a good feeling.

We stayed at a tremendous resort in a two bedroom apartment. We had a kitchen, a laundry room (YEA!), our own private balcony, and plenty of room to spread out. We stocked up on food at the grocery store, and for the first time in nearly a month, I had some scrambled eggs that weren’t grossly under-cooked. In China (and in Bangkok), the style for scrambled eggs is runnnny. Making my own breakfast (bacon, eggs, cheese, and toast) the way I like it was one of the most comforting experiences in Phuket. Sara really appreciated the free Yoga classes, the beach, the cheap massages, and the three different swimming pools. The Marriott Phuket Resort is definitely top-notch.

For the first (and likely last) time in my life, I enjoyed a “house call.” The doctor came to my room, sat down on the floor, got out his stethoscope, and listened to me cough. Meanwhile, the two nurses that accompanied him feverishly took notes, filled out prescription forms, administered drugs, and completed other various paperwork. For $150 (US), the doctor made me feel like a “somebody.” Even more, I really respected these people for being medical professionals that didn’t make you feel like a schmuck. Unlike a visit to a US Doctor – who makes you wait, doesn’t always give you time to ask questions, and generally makes you feel rushed – this Thai doctor was a “regular guy.” I can understand now why many US citizens retire in Thailand – the doctors here are much nicer (not to mention less expensive).

More highlights are on the way…

A long time ago–long before we came to Asia–I came across this video of painting elephants.

Amazing, isn’t it?

Well, imagine my excitement when I got to see it for myself.

We saw this while on our jungle trek. I can’t believe what great artists these elephants make.

So many great moments it’s hard to pick…

1. Being approached by a taxi driver who agreed to drive us up the mountain to see the Buddhist Temple–Doi Suthep Naga. Later that day he drove us to the village shops a/k/a tourist trap shopping center where we actually had a pretty good time. Later our driver told Jason he wanted to see us again and even be friends for life.

That was a first.

2. While walking through Chiang Mai we came to the Tha Phrae Gate (old city wall) and ended up speaking with two different groups of Americans. One of whom took our picture and the other we took pictures of…it’s good to be tourists.

3. After the gate we walked a ways more. We were so hot that day. When we found a smoothie shop we sat there for a really long time just basking in the coolness. Seems like such a small thing, but it was the best part of our day.

4. Visiting the Wat Chedi Luang and being able to speak with a monk about Buddhist life and being a monk.

5. Stumbling on Tha Phrae Gate a second time, but this time after a pseudo-Mexican dinner. Once again we were impressed by the pretty sight.

6. Bamboo raft trip and seeing the elephants paint.

7. Our Thai cooking class.

8. Catching up on work at the nearby coffee shops. Chiang Mai is a backpacker’s paradise with all kinds of bars, coffee shops, and cheap restaurants.

9. Shopping at the night markets.

Crap?
Yes.

Cheap?
Yes.

Worth buying?
Yes.

10. Watching Jason’s reaction when he stepped into the world’s coldest hotel pool.

While in Chiang Mai we went to the circus on a jungle safari. I was so excited to ride the elephants and really experience the jungle, but once we got to our destination I was disappointed to realize that it was all a bit too touristy/contrived for my taste.

The first part of our “jungle trek” was an elephant show. I love the elephants. They are amazing. While watching them paint, dance, and do crazy things was entertaining, I couldn’t help but wonder if maybe it wasn’t ethical to force these beautiful animals to act like idiots all just to make us laugh.

But we were there so we played along and enjoyed it anyway.

Next on the agenda was an oxcart ride to a “real” mountain village.

Apparently this is how many villagers got around back in the day. It was a bumpy ride, but not as bumpy as what would come later.

When we got to the village I was not surprised to see 12 or 15 little stands selling the same touristy items we’d seen all over Thailand so far–even though the village was touted as being an authentic village where Tibetan families lived and sold their handcrafted wares.  I was tempted to buy a hat but then I noticed the label said “Route 66″ and I decided if I was going to buy an authentic Route 66 hat I might as well do it at K-Mart back home. Instead, we bought some water and waited for our ride back.

The ride on the elephant was much bumpier than I expected. We really had to hang on  tight. As much as I had looked forward to the elephant ride, I was glad to get off. My tush hurt a little.

The last part of the “trek” was a ride on a bamboo raft. This was my favorite part of the day. It was very peaceful. The scenery was beautiful. And we had good company. Ironically enough there was a couple on our tour from Ft. Collins, Colorado. What are the chances?

Here we all are. Say hi to John and Michelle. (John’s hiding behind my lovely hat).

Of all the exotic and wonderful things we saw that day, only one was not orchestrated…

This giant spider (the size of my hand, at least) hung out over our heads during our lunch. He went completely unnoticed until we were finished and ready to leave. He put the fright in us.

Now, that’s what hanging out in a Thai jungle is all about.

After Phuket we traveled to Chiang Mai, which is in northern Thailand and surrounded by mountains. Chiang Mai was an excellent stop and a place we wish we could’ve stayed longer.

Our first night there we walked from our hotel through the night markets, across the river, and to a restaurant called The Good View.

Beers are only $1 in Thailand and chicken curry is only a few more. Needless to say, it was a nice, inexpensive dinner overlooking the river.

About half way through our meal I looked up to the sky to see this huge orange light moving pretty fast. We started taking all these pictures because we thought it was a meteor or something. Then a few minutes went by and we saw six more and they were right on top of each other. We were freaking out a little not knowing what it was.

Jason finally turned around and asked a guy (who happened to be from Germany) what they were and he laughed at us, I mean really laughed at us. Apparently these were balloons of some sort that are lit on fire in order to make them float. Every year in November the Thai people celebrate the full moon and the coming dry season. This is part of that celebration.

Anyway in between bouts of laughter this guy said something like, “So did you think the Russians were coming?”

Well, yeah, something like that. Either that or the world was about to implode into a fiery mess.

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On our last day in Phuket we took a ferry to Koh Phi Phi. Every one we talked to said this was a must see when in Phuket, but what we didn’t know is that its a place definitely worth staying for a few days.

Koh Phi Phi is very remote and it took about two hours to reach the island. Lucky for us we were able to sleep the whole way there. A combination of the heat, the ocean waves, and our spoiled selves not used to waking up at 6am allowed us to nap peacefully.

Once we got close to Koh Phi Phi the scenery looked very similar to what we’d seen on our caves tour, but with the sun out this time it was much greener.

Koh Phi Phi was one of the many places destroyed by the 2004 tsunami. From what we understood the whole island was devastated. They kept some of the wreckage in place as a reminder, but even without the wreckage it was hard not to think about what it must’ve been like.

We only had a few hours before the return ferry left so we played at the beach and ate and drank.

We’re glad we went to Koh Phi Phi. We only wish we had spent a few days here instead of a few hours. It would’ve been nice to stay in our own little bungalow, snorkel, and jungle trek…maybe next time.

Phuket is a much bigger island than we anticipated. In fact, we were pretty surprised to find ourselves 45 minutes away from the popular, touristy areas. We weren’t prepared for its size and felt a little stranded in our hotel. However, if I were ever to be stranded at a hotel, I’d pick this one. We had everything we needed and more.

Although Phuket itself was great, the best part of our time here were the side trips we took to some of the smaller islands nearby. We were told there are more than 130 small islands within two hours of Phuket. We only  made it to a few.

The first adventure was a caves tour. It took about 1 1/2 hours by boat to reach a cluster of uninhabited islands where we disembarked from the big boat onto canoes. We had a guide that paddled us through different caves and around some of these islands.

This is by far the best tour we’ve taken while on our travels. That’s saying a lot especially considering the fact that it was raining like crazy and we had to float in and out of caves (you all know how much I like caves).

Yes, those are bats. The guide told us to keep our mouths closed to prevent bat poop falling into our mouths. I’m serious.

Not all of the caves were overtaken by bats. In others we saw beautiful colors and awesome shapes. From our canoes we saw a lot of wildlife living in the water and on the islands. We saw sea spiders, lizards (of course) and a family of long-tailed monkeys…baby monkeys and all.

Some of the caves we toured were so small we had to lie down and suck it in.

The neat little object you see there is a traditional Thai offering that people make in November for Loy Kratong Day–a celebration of the full moon in the twelfth lunar month. Made of banana leaves and orchids, the idea is to take the offering to the river and send it off with a wish. The celebration comes at a time during the year when water levels are high and the dry season begins.

Here we are sending off the offering that we made ourselves (with the help of our guide). The last of the caves we toured was after dark. This was so we could see the water sparkle from all the phosphorecence in and to send our offering with lit candles and incense. If it hadn’t been raining we could’ve gotten video, but trust us, it was beautiful.

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